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Like a toque-wearing Moses, Andre Rochat parted the waves of Las Vegas budget buffets in 1980, taking the cuisine of his native France to a culinary desert. Rochat has ever since added Andre's at the Monte Carlo and Alizé at the Palms. But his provincially designed flagship in a 1930s-era downtown house-with 4 warm dining rooms, every symbolizing another French city and embellished with a lot of wood, tapestries, and soft lighting-is still going strong, owing simply to the menu that features both equally classic French dishes for example coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops in a wine-enriched cream sauce) and many with updated twists, such as grilled quail with figs and prosciutto. Entrée prices start in the mid-30s.

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